Repair Review Car

1. Remove the front grill, which is held on with two screws at the top. Remove the outside temperature sensor by squeezing the prongs and pulling.
2. Unbolt the front support located behind the grill. There are four 10-mm bolts, three 8-mm bolts and two screws at the bottom. Remove the clips from the hood-release cable and push them to the front of the car.
3. Remove the secondary radiator. Its held on with two 10-mm bolts at the bottom. Remove the two hoses, and let the coolant drain into a pan.
4. Loosen the 13-mm bolt that holds the alternator to the block. Use a 13-mm wrench on the alternator bracket, turning clockwise to loosen the belt.
5. Remove the compressor belt for the A/C with a 14-mm wrench on the bottom and a 15-mm wrench on the top. Remove the power steering pump belt with a 15-mm wrench and a 13-mm wrench behind the pulley.
6. Remove the bracket shaped like an upside down L from the passenger side of the block with a 17-mm wrench.
7. Remove the plastic cover for the belts that is attached to the block and held on with 6-mm Allen bolts.
8. Remove the crank pulley. First remove the four 6-mm Allen bolts from the pulley and then the center bolt with a 27-mm socket. Put the car in fifth gear to keep the motor from turning.
9. Remove the metal cover located in front of the timing belt, held on with two 5-mm Allen bolts.
10. Put the crank bolt back in and with the car in neutral, turn the motor with a socket on the end of the crankshaft bolt until the small dot on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the arrow on the valve cover. Mark the dot and arrow with a marker or paint.
11. To make sure the motor is at top dead center (TDC), remove the first spark plug and use a long screwdriver to make sure the piston is at the top of its travel.
12. Remove the camshaft gear with the timing belt still on and car in fifth gear to keep the motor from turning. Remove the camshaft gear and timing belt. Put car back in neutral after it is loosened.
13. There is an inner metal plate that needs to be removed with a 10-mm and 13-mm socket. There are three bolts on the front, one on the passenger side and on for the water pump.
14. Remove the remaining 6-mm Allen bolt for the water pump and remove the pump.
15. Put a new seal for the water pump and reinstall the water pump (or install a new one); install in the reverse of removal.
16. Reinstall the camshaft gear, aligning it with the timing marks. Make sure the crankshaft is also still aligned with the arrow on the valve cover.
17. Once everything is aligned, install the new timing belt and rotate the water pump to set the timing belt tension. You should be able to just twist the belt to 90-degrees with your fingers.
18. Reinstall everything in the reverse of removal. Bleed and top up coolant system.

1. Park the Audi on a flat surface and put the parking brake on. If you will be replacing the front rotors first, place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. If youre replacing the rear rotors first, place wheel chocks behind the front wheels.
2. Slide the floor jack under a solid part of the car frame on the end of the car that youll be working on first. Carefully pump the jack and raise the car until its high enough to slide jack stands underneath.
3. Slide two jack stands under the car on opposite sides of the end youre working on. Make sure theyre positioned under solid parts of the frame. With the stands in place, carefully lower the jack until the car is resting on the stands, then pull the jack out.
4. Approach the first wheel you want to work on and use the tire iron to remove all of the wheel lug nuts. When the lug nuts are off, pull the tire toward you to remove the entire tire and wheel assembly.
5. Study the caliper and brake pad assembly clamped to the rotor, and if you have a service manual for your car, open it up to a diagram of this assembly. The goal is to determine exactly how the caliper assembly is held together. On many Audis, there is a thin wire clip that surrounds the entire caliper assembly, but this may not be present. You should also see one or two bolts holding the caliper itself in place, and another series of bolts holding the caliper mount against the rotor.
6. Remove the wire clip, if applicable, using a pair of pliers.
7. Use a hex socket wrench or screwdriver, depending on your caliper bolt style, to remove the bolt or bolts holding the outside of the caliper against the caliper mount. When you do this, the caliper will come loose. Make sure you support the caliper and do not allow it to dangle from the brake line.
8. Attach the caliper to the underside of the frame using twist ties so that it will not dangle from the brake line. Allowing the caliper to dangle may damage the brake line, which is very dangerous.
9. Pull the two brake pads, which should now be exposed, out of the brake caliper mount.
10. Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper mount onto the rotor. This will require either a hex socket wrench or a screwdriver, depending on the bolt design. Pull the mount off of the rotor when the bolts have been removed.
11. Slide the old rotor off the wheel spindle.
12. Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle.
13. Put the brake caliper mount back on the rotor in the same position it was installed on the older one. Insert the bolts and tighten them all back down.
14. Slide the brake pads back into place in the caliper mount.
15. Take the twist ties off of the brake caliper and place it on top of the caliper mount. Replace the bolts holding the caliper together and tighten them down.
16. Slide the tire and wheel assembly back onto the wheel spindle and tighten down all of the lug nuts.
17. Repeat steps four through sixteen on the other wheel on the same end of the car.
18. Slide the floor jack back under the frame and pump it up so that the car rises and inch or so above the jack stands. Remove the jack stands, then slowly lower the car off the jack.
19. Repeat this entire process on the opposite end of the car.

1. Open the door as wide as possible. Pull the door handle back to gain access to the Philips screw behind it. Remove this screw and then pull the handle and handle enclosure off the door. There are two more Philips screws behind it that need to be removed.
2. Locate and remove the two screws along the bottom edge of the door panel and the two along the front edge. Pull the door panel away from the door, starting at one corner. Pull until the plastic clips behind the panel pop and separate from the door. There are clips located along each side and the bottom of the panel.
3. Lift the panel up and away from the door. Reach behind it and unclip the wiring harness connection between the door and the door and window controls to completely remove the door panel.

1. Turn off your Audi A81 and crouch down near the passenger side wheel well.
2. Remove the four screws holding the splash screen of the inner fender in place and pull the screen back and in, tucking it against the tire. This action will reveal the space where the windshield washer reservoir is housed.
3. Remove the power and delivery hose cords from the pump, which is the small black device attached to the side of the windshield washer reservoir.
4. Search with your flashlight for the bolt recessed deep in the cavity that mounts the windshield washer reservoir to the vehicle. Remove this bolt using your socket wrench with the long extension.
5. Pull the windshield washer reservoir out of the Audi A8I through the wheel well. Pull back on the inner fender and wiggle the reservoir through the space if you find it a tight squeeze.
6. Examine the reservoir for leaks or cracks. Drain the leftover washer fluid into a spare tray.
7. Thoroughly clean the surface around the crack using soap and water. Dry the area with a rag.
8. Open the plastic tank repair kit and sand down the surface around the crack with the sandpaper provided in the kit.
9. Degrease the area around the crack with the rubbing alcohol provided in the kit.
10. Lay the fiberglass sheet over the reservoir tank crack. Mix the epoxy compound from the kit and saturate the fiberglass with the epoxy using the brush provided. Let the sheet harden as long as required as per the manufacturers instructions.
11. Reinstall the reservoir tank, the pump cords and the splash screen.

Audi R8 2011

Audi R8 2011: The engine is a high-revving unit. The maximum engine speed is 8,250 rpm. Two transmissions are available: a manual 6-speed gearbox or optionally the Audi R tronic sequential-shift gearbox, with a joystick gear-shift on the centre console and, most especially, the paddles mounted on the steering wheel. ‘Shift by wire’ technology provides for very fast gear-shifting and an outstanding power-to-weight ratio, allied to compact gearbox dimensions. The Sport mode, with its fast shifting, guarantees the absolute maximum in terms of driving fun. An automatic mode can also be selected. The car is fitted with permanent four-wheel drive, which distributes the power variably to the front and rear axles by way of a viscous clutch. On the Audi R8 the legendary quattro system is adapted to the axle load distribution typical of mid-engined cars. The interior has a driver-oriented cockpit architecture, integrating the driver between the dashboard and the high centre console. The instrument panel above the console is angled slightly towards the driver. The flat-bottomed steering wheel is a typical feature of the sportiest Audi models, and also enables comfortable sports car entry and exit.The sports seats are trimmed as standard in a Leather/Alcantara combination, or optionally in full leather. Alternatively, the R8 can also be fitted with bucket seats, specially developed by quattro GmbH. There is plenty of room for the two occupants, with comfort levels well beyond the norm of high-performance sports cars. There is space behind the seats to stow large bags, or even two golf bags. The luggage compartment at the front has a capacity of 100 litres.With numerous trim variants and applications in Piano finish or Carbon sigma, there are few limits to the range of customisation options for the interior.

Audi R8 2011

Audi R8 2011 Features:

Displacement: 4.2L/254.Fuel System: FSI Direct.SAE Net Horsepower @ RPM: 430 @ 7800.SAE Net Torque @ RPM: 317 @ 4500-6000.Trans Type: 6.Reverse Ratio (:1): 3.71.Final Drive Axle Ratio (:1): 3.46.EPA Fuel Economy Est – City (MPG): 12.EPA Fuel Economy Est – Hwy (MPG): 19.Cold Cranking Amps @ 0° F (Primary): 520.Maximum Alternator Capacity (amps): 190.Base Curb Weight (lbs): 3605.

Audi R8 2011 Price in India: Not Available.

Audi R8 2011 Price in USA: Not Available.

Audi R8 2011 Price in Australia: Not Available.

Audi R8 2011 Price in Canada: Not Available.

Audi R8 2011 Price in Europe: Not Available.

German tuner Abt Sportsline has previewed its tuning kit for the Audi Q3.



The Audi Q3 by ABT Sportsline now has new front grille, front skirt, door strip attachments, rear wing and rear skirt set with four exhaust inserts. The smalles SUV from badged with the “four-ring” logo now sits on ABT CR and DR light allow wheels with 18 and 20 inches.





The most potent standard Q3 is the 211hp 2.0-litre TFSI turbo petrol, and Abt are planning to boost this to 250hp; the 170hp alternative will likewise jump to 210hp. 140hp and 177hp 2.0-litre turbodiesels also get friskier, with increases to 170hp and 195hp, respectively.











Press Release



Coming soon at ABT - The new Audi Q3



Kempten commitment to maximum urban sportiness - the new ABT Q3



"The Q3 is an extremely athletic yet very elegant vehicle. It combines the powerful aesthetics of a robust car with the shape of a cool coupe", explains Hans-Jürgen Abt. For the CEO of ABT Sportsline, the worlds largest tuner of vehicles from the VW Group, the latest offspring of the SUV family represents an absolute highlight in the product range: "In its class the Q3 is something special. For our designers it provides the perfect working basis, as it is both classy and dynamic", states Hans-Jürgen Abt. For example the Abts were able to further accentuate the unique tornado curves of the Q3 with side sills. In connection with the striking ABT front grill and the front spoiler the inherently compact car seems more powerful and to have more presence. The rear wing, rear apron and exhaust pipe covers ensure that from the rear of the SUV you can see that the car has a good figure.



After all the ABT Q3 does not just look sporty - it is sporty too: the engineers from Bavaria are currently working on the final tests of the individual ABT POWER performance packages. But it is already certain that the new car will provide an additional boost of maximum sportiness and extra driving enjoyment in practically all situations. As a result the most powerful version of the 2.0 TSI is expected to offer 250 HP or 184 kW (series standard: 211 HP/155 kW). The 170 HP version (125 kW) has been converted by ABT Sportsline into a sports engine with 210 HP (154 kW). For SUVs, a diesel engine is of course always a good, economical solution. As a result ABT POWER is also available for both performance levels of the economic 2.0 TDI: the series standard 140 HP (103 kW) is increased to 170 HP (125 kW), while the version with 177 HP (130 kW) as standard offers a high-torque 195 HP (143 kW) after the power treatment by ABT. The turbo diesel with two litre cubic capacity is the first choice if you want a little more, for example if the athletic ABT Q3 is also to be used as a workhorse.



Regardless of which engine is chosen, the customer always receives a vehicle which combines maximum driving fun with everyday usability and reliability. The fact that handling and optics do not have to suffer due to the cars diversity is proved emphatically by the SUV of ABT. And the new Q3 in particular is a really attractive car, its design elements harmonise with the performance improvements - both have been developed as it were from the high demands of ABT customers. Consequently the extravagant light metal alloys from the CR and DR ranges suit the ABT Q3s powerful-robust coupe shape perfectly. It goes without saying that the alloys are also available in combination with strong load-bearing high-performance tyres - in accordance with the commitment to maximum urban sportiness.

 The German luxury car Audi is presenting the Audi A3 Sportback e-tron during the upcoming International Motor Show in Geneva, which opens the first week of March.

This is another example of a rush job that adelabta the house with the four rings in the electrification of the propulsion plug-in hybrid technology.

A system power of 204 hp (150 kW) and a torque of 350 Nm systems ensure extraordinary sporting performance in the Audi A3 e-tron.

Again, this is a car that carries all the genes of Audi. It accelerates from 0-100 km / h in 7.6 seconds and reaches a top speed of 222 km / h. Respecting ECE plug-in hybrid car, the five-door travels 252.4 miles per gallon (66.7 km / l or 1.5 liters of fuel per 100 km), which corresponds to a volume of CO2 emissions of 35 g / km. In pure electric mode, the Audi A3 e-tron has a top speed of 130 km / h, with a maximum range of 50 km.

Interior

As combustion engine uses a modified 1.4 TFSI delivers an output of 150 hp (110 kW). Via a clutch, the TFSI cooperates with an electric motor 75 KW yields.

The electric motor is hard as a change is made Tronic six-speed new design that distributes the power between the front wheels. Both powertrain are complementary: the electric motor provides maximum torque from start until about 2,000 rpm, the TFSI reaches its maximum pulling power in the range of between 1,750 and 4,000 rpm.

The Audi A3 e-tron is able to move only with the combustion engine, electric engine only or in hybrid mode.

Since electric mode provides a powerful acceleration without simultaneously connecting the TFSI. Both engines are active together only if the driver so desires (boost). When the driver releases the accelerator, are temporarily disabled (sailing). Thus, it eliminates the braking torque of the engine and increases the efficiency.

At the International Motor Show in Geneva, the Audi A3 e-tron offers a realistic view of the future of mobility, as envisaged by Audi. The powertrain electrification, especially thanks to plug-in hybrid technology, plays a decisive role in the strategy of the brand.

1. Open the hood and loosen the 10mm retaining nut on the Audis negative battery cable clamp using a socket wrench.
2. Slide the clamp off the battery terminal.
3. Wait 15 minutes. Then, reconnect the battery cable. This will reset the ECU (electronic control module) and the TCM (transmission control module).

1. Turn on your A3 to initiate pairing your device. Enable the Bluetooth connection by activating the Search Devices function on your phone.
2. Select the device beginning with Audi UHV and a string of numbers, then connect to it.
3. Enter a PIN number for the vehicle. If this is your first time connecting to the vehicle, enter the default code, 1234. You can change your code after setup, using your mobile device.
4. Pair the phone to the vehicle. Make sure your phones Bluetooth settings are set to Permanent On so that it connects to your A3 every time youre in the car. Refer to your phones manual for specific settings instructions.

1. Push Audi stereo removal keys into the slots on the side on the radio. The keys can be purchased from an Audi dealer or a car audio retailer. Push the keys in until they click into place. Using the keys, pull the radio out of the housing in the dashboard. Unplug the black radio antenna cable. Disconnect the radio wire harness by pushing the tab on the side and pulling the connections apart.
2. Install the face plate adapter. Audi S4s come with a double DIN-sized radio, and a basic aftermarket stereo is too small for the vacated space. A face plate adapter for the Audi can solve this problem and is available from car audio retailers. Click the face plate adapter into the slots vacated by the factory-issue stereo.
3. Attach the wiring. Connect the wire harness adapter to the wire harness of the car. Push the connections together until they click into place. Connect the other end of the wire harness adapter to the aftermarket stereo wire harness. Plug the black radio antenna cable into the radio antenna port on the rear of the aftermarket stereo.
4. Slide the aftermarket stereo into the port of the face plate adapter. Slide it is as far as it can go, taking care not to trap any of the wires. Turn on the unit to test the installation.